Marjorie Joyner’s Permanent Wave Machine (1928) – Patent, Technology and Industrial Breakthrough

The history of permanent wave technology is often associated with the invention of Karl Ludwig Nessler around 1905.

However, the transition from invention to industry did not occur at that moment.

It happened later — and it can be traced precisely.

One of the clearest pieces of evidence is the 1928 patent of Marjorie Stewart Joyner.

This document does not represent a new invention in principle.It represents something more important:

the transformation of permanent wave technology into a scalable system.

Original patent petition of Marjorie S. Joyner, 1928. U.S. Patent No. 1,693,515. Source: National Archives at Kansas City.

The Original Patent Document (1928)

The patent file provides clear historical data:

• Patent Number: 1,693,515 • Date: November 27, 1928 • Inventor: Marjorie S. Joyner • Location: Chicago, Illinois • Title: Permanent Waving Machine

The application was filed on May 16, 1928 and assigned to the Madame C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company — one of the most important beauty enterprises in the United States at the time.

This alone shows:This was not an isolated invention, but part of an industrial system.

What the Patent Actually Says

On page 1 of the specification, Joyner describes the goal of her invention as:

“a simple and efficient machine that will wave the hair”

This sentence is key.

Not “new”, not “revolutionary” — but:

→ simple→ efficient

This reflects a completely different stage of technological development.

The problem was no longer how to curl hair permanently.The problem was:

How can this be done faster, safer and at scale?

Technical Structure of the Machine

The patent describes a system built around a central mechanical structure:

• a dome-like construction holding the apparatus • multiple electrically heated curling irons • wiring integrated into a central distribution system • clamping devices to secure hair sections • a scalp protection system

(see specification pages 2–4 and drawings)

The drawings (pages 14–16) clearly show:

• a multi-arm hanging system • evenly distributed heating elements • simultaneous treatment positions

This is the crucial innovation:

👉 parallel processing of hair sections

Patent drawing of Marjorie S. Joyner’s permanent wave machine (1928), showing the multi-rod system for simultaneous hair treatment. U.S. Patent No. 1,693,515. Source: National Archives at Kansas City.

The Key Innovation: From Sequential to Parallel

The fundamental difference between Nessler’s system and Joyner’s machine lies in workflow.

Nessler (1905):

• one strand at a time • long treatment duration • highly manual process

Joyner (1928):

• multiple strands simultaneously • reduced treatment time • structured salon workflow

This shift is not just technical — it is economic.

It transforms the permanent wave from:

→ a specialised procedure→ into a scalable service

Industrial Context – The Walker Company

The assignment of the patent to the Madame C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company is critical.

This company was not only a producer of cosmetic products, but part of a larger system including:

• beauty schools • salon networks • product distribution • professional training

Joyner’s invention fits exactly into this structure.

It allowed permanent wave technology to be:

→ standardised→ taught→ reproduced→ scaled

From Europe to America – A Structural Shift

The development of permanent wave technology follows a clear pattern:

Europe (Nessler):→ invention and experimentation

United States (Joyner):→ optimisation and industrialisation

Karl Ludwig Nessler proved that hair could be permanently reshaped.

Marjorie Stewart Joyner proved that this process could be turned into a system.

Why This Patent Marks a Turning Point

This document represents a decisive moment in technological history.

It marks the transition:

→ from mechanical experimentation→ to industrial standardisation

The permanent wave was no longer defined by the machine itself, but by:

• workflow • efficiency • reproducibility

Without this shift, the permanent wave would likely have remained a niche technique.

Instead, it became a global industry.

Technical Significance in Detail

The patent reveals several important developments:

• centralised heat distribution • reduced physical strain on the client • modular structure of the machine • integration of safety components • repeatable salon procedures

These elements show a clear movement toward system design, not just invention.

Detail drawings from Marjorie S. Joyner’s 1928 patent, illustrating curling rods, clamping mechanisms and application techniques. U.S. Patent No. 1,693,515. Source: National Archives at Kansas City.

Conclusion

The 1928 patent of Marjorie Stewart Joyner is one of the most important documents in the history of hair technology.

It demonstrates that innovation does not end with invention.

It evolves through:

• optimisation

• standardisation • industrial application

Together with Karl Ludwig Nessler, Joyner represents the second decisive phase of permanent wave technology:

the moment it became an industry.

Sources and Archival References

• U.S. Patent No. 1,693,515 (1928) – Marjorie S. Joyner • United States Patent Office records • Madame C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company archives

Further Reading

→ Karl Ludwig Nessler and Marjorie Joyner – Evolution of Machines → History of Permanent Wave Technology (1870–1950) → Permanent Wave in America – Industrial Development → Nestlé-LeMur – The American Business of Charles Nessler

FAQ

What is Patent 1,693,515? It is the 1928 patent for a permanent waving machine developed by Marjorie Stewart Joyner.

What was the key innovation? The ability to process multiple hair sections simultaneously.

Why is this patent important? It marks the transition from invention to industrial application of permanent wave technology.

Who owned the patent? The Madame C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company.

How does it relate to Nessler? Karl Ludwig Nessler created the original system, Joyner made it scalable.