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Chapter XIII – Hair Treatments
 

Chapter XIII of The Story of Hair marks a transition from theory to application.

After developing a comprehensive framework around hair, instinct, and human development, Charles Nessler now addresses a practical question:

👉 Can hair actually be treated, improved, or restored?

This chapter examines:

  • existing hair treatments

  • commercial claims

  • practical experiments

  • and the limits of intervention

It is one of the most critical chapters in the book, as Nessler directly challenges the hair industry of his time.
 

The Core Question

Nessler frames the problem clearly:

If hair production depends on internal forces, can external treatments really change anything?

He acknowledges the concern:

  • if hair loss is systemic

  • are treatments useless?

His answer is balanced:

👉 some treatments can help—but many are ineffective or misleading

Rejection of “Miracle Cures”

A major part of the chapter is devoted to criticism.

Nessler attacks:

  • “positive cures” for baldness

  • commercial lotions

  • exaggerated claims

He notes that:

  • many products promise regrowth

  • few deliver measurable results

  • testimonials are unreliable

👉 Example:

He describes offers of guaranteed cures, supported only by anecdotal evidence and financial incentives.
 

Critique of the Hair Industry

Nessler is surprisingly direct:

👉 the hair treatment market is driven by profit, not science

He explains:

  • new substances are constantly introduced

  • old ideas are repackaged

  • customers are repeatedly misled

“Remedy after remedy moves along to the next ‘positive cure’.”
 

Substances and Their Limitations

He argues that:

👉 external substances cannot create hair production

Key points:

  • hair is not controlled externally

  • no chemical can “force” growth

  • treatment must respect biological limits

However:

  • treatments can influence the scalp

  • circulation can be stimulated

  • conditions can improve
     

Example: Mange Treatment

Nessler uses mange (a skin condition) as an example:

  • animals treated with substances may regrow hair

  • but this is due to removing disease

  • not stimulating growth directly

👉 Conclusion:

Treatment works only when a specific cause is removed
 

Mechanical and Practical Effects

Nessler also discusses practical techniques:

  • cutting hair

  • stimulating the scalp

  • increasing blood flow

He suggests that:

  • shaving or cutting can temporarily improve conditions

  • stimulation increases circulation

  • but results are limited
     

Experimentation and Data

A particularly strong part of the chapter:

👉 Nessler conducts his own experiments

Example:

  • 30-day treatment cycle

  • daily brushing and stimulation

  • measurement of shed hair

Result:

  • increased hair shedding

  • increased scalp activity

  • eventual regrowth

👉 Important insight:

Hair loss can increase temporarily during treatment.
 

Data Observations

From collected samples (see tables in the scan):

  • water, fat, dust, and skin particles were measured

  • hair shedding increased during stimulation

👉 Interpretation:

  • treatments activate the scalp

  • but also increase turnover
     

The Role of Dandruff

Nessler makes an interesting observation:

👉 dandruff is not necessarily a disease

He suggests:

  • it increases with stimulation

  • it reflects scalp activity

  • it is part of the renewal process

This contradicts many common assumptions.
 

Long-Term Hair Growth Study

He presents a case study:

  • woman with long-term hair growth

  • measured over several years

  • consistent renewal cycle
     

Findings:

  • hair renews approximately every 4 years

  • shedding is continuous

  • growth depends on overall scalp condition
     

Hair Length and Maintenance

Nessler emphasizes:

  • long hair requires maintenance

  • cutting can reduce stress

  • excessive length weakens follicles

👉 Practical takeaway:

Hair management matters—but within limits.

Deception and False Treatments

One of the strongest sections:

👉 exposure of misleading treatments
 

Examples include:

  • dyes that appear to “restore” hair

  • chemical irritants that simulate activity

  • products that darken hair temporarily

“Within a week… the hair appears darker.”

👉 but:

  • no real improvement

  • only cosmetic effect

Cold Water and Physical Treatment

Nessler criticizes extreme practices:

  • cold water exposure

  • harsh treatments

  • excessive stimulation
     

He argues:

  • results are inconsistent

  • effects are often misunderstood
     

Final Position on Treatments

Nessler’s conclusion is realistic:

👉 treatments have limits


He states:

  • some improvement is possible

  • full restoration is rare

  • honesty is essential

“Whoever desires to treat hair honestly must know his limitations.”
 

Conclusion of Chapter XIII

Chapter XIII is one of the most grounded parts of the book.

Key ideas:

  • most hair treatments are exaggerated

  • external products cannot create hair

  • scalp stimulation can have limited effects

  • scientific measurement is necessary

  • honesty is essential in treatment
     

Modern Scientific Perspective

Modern science provides a clearer understanding.

✔️ What is correct:

  • many hair products are ineffective ✔

  • scalp condition matters ✔

  • increased shedding can occur during treatment ✔

❌ What is incorrect:

  • external treatments have no effect ❌

  • all chemical treatments are useless ❌
     

Modern treatments include:

  • Minoxidil (stimulates follicles)

  • Finasteride (hormonal regulation)

  • medical therapies

  • transplant techniques
     

What remains true today

Nessler’s strongest insight:

👉 the hair industry often overpromises

Even today:

  • marketing exceeds results

  • expectations are unrealistic

  • misinformation exists

Final Interpretation

Chapter XIII shows Nessler at his most practical and critical.

He moves away from theory and focuses on:

  • real-world application

  • measurable results

  • limitations of intervention

Hair is no longer just a symbol—it becomes a manageable but limited biological system.
 

OPTIONAL SECTION

Chapter 14 
Chapter 12

Back to Overview
→ The Permanent Wave – Invention, Method and Impact

Below you find the original scanned version of Chapter XIII from The Story of Hair by Charles Nessler.

Download Chapter XIII (Original Scan, 1928)

International Research Project on the Permanent Wave

This website is part of an ongoing historical research project on the development of the permanent wave and the life of Charles Nessler (1872–1951).

The aim of this digital project is to document the history of the permanent wave in a comprehensive and source-based way.

The research includes:

  • biographical milestones

  • historical documents and press sources

  • patents and technical developments

  • international networks within the hairdressing profession

The archive is continuously expanding and based on ongoing research in European and international archives.


View the German archive (nessler-dauerwelle.de)
View Nestlé-LemurCompany (nestle-lemur.com)

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