History of Permanent Wave Technology (1870–1950)

The permanent wave represents one of the most influential technological developments in the history of hairdressing.

Today, it seems self-evident that hair can be permanently reshaped. However, before the early twentieth century, most curls were temporary and disappeared after washing.

Between approximately 1870 and 1950, hairdressers, inventors, engineers and chemists across Europe and the United States developed a wide range of methods to permanently alter the structure of hair.

These innovations evolved from simple heated tools to complex electrical machines and eventually to chemical processes — laying the foundation of modern hair technology and the global beauty industry.

Early Precursors of the Permanent Wave

Marcel Wave (1872)

Inventor: Marcel GrateauCountry: FranceTechnique: Heated curling irons

The Marcel Wave was one of the most influential hairstyling techniques of the late nineteenth century.

Grateau demonstrated that controlled heat could reshape hair fibres in a predictable way. Although the result was temporary, the underlying principle — that hair structure can be manipulated through heat and tension — became fundamental for later developments.

The Marcel Wave can therefore be understood as a technological precursor rather than a true permanent solution.

The First True Permanent Wave

Nessler Permanent Wave System (1905)

Inventor: Karl Ludwig NesslerCountry: Germany / Great BritainTechnique: Electrically heated rods with chemical preparation

The decisive breakthrough came with the system developed by Nessler in London around 1905.

For the first time, hair was not only shaped temporarily, but structurally altered.

The system relied on three interacting elements:

• mechanical tension (hair wrapped around rods) • chemical preparation of the hair

• controlled heat from electrically heated elements

Together, these factors changed the internal structure of the hair shaft, allowing curls to remain for extended periods.

Early machines were large and complex, often suspended above the client’s head. Treatments could take several hours — but the results were revolutionary.

👉 More detail: → Permanent Wave – Invention and System of Karl Nessler → London Phase of Karl Nessler

Early Machine Development (1906–1914)

Following Nessler’s breakthrough, rapid improvements were made across Europe.

Key focus areas included:

• improved safety • more stable machine construction • better temperature control

These refinements made the permanent wave increasingly viable for professional salon use.

Gallia System (1910s)

Country: FranceTechnique: Adapted electrical permanent wave machines

An early attempt to simplify Nessler’s complex apparatus while maintaining the same core principles.

Szeemann System

Inventor: Étienne SzeemannCountry: Switzerland / FranceTechnique: Modified thermal method

Focused on improved heat distribution and winding techniques. Represents typical early-stage optimisation rather than a radical innovation.

Suter System

Inventor: Eugene SuterCountry: SwitzerlandTechnique: Improved heating systems

Part of the broader effort to stabilise and refine electrical permanent wave machines.

Calvete Heating System

Inventor: Isidoro CalveteTechnique: Advanced heating elements

Improved precision in heat control — a critical factor in achieving consistent results without damaging the hair.

Permanent Wave Technology in the 1920s

During the 1920s, the permanent wave became increasingly widespread.

Technological development shifted toward:

• efficiency • reliability • salon scalability

Mayer Wave (1924–1925)

Inventor: Josef MayerCountry: AustriaTechnique: Improved electrical system

Enhanced usability and temperature control, making treatments more consistent in salon environments.

Croquignole Method

Country: France / United StatesTechnique: Modified winding

Hair was wrapped from the ends toward the scalp, producing softer and more natural-looking curls.

Frederics System

Inventor: Charles FredericsCountry: United StatesTechnique: Salon-optimised machines

Focused on professional efficiency and contributed to the industrialisation of salon processes.

American Innovations

Joyner Permanent Wave Machine (1928)

Inventor: Marjorie JoynerCountry: United StatesTechnique: Multi-rod system

Joyner’s machine allowed multiple hair sections to be processed simultaneously — a major leap in efficiency.

This innovation significantly accelerated the commercial expansion of permanent wave services in American salons.

Racine System

Country: United StatesPeriod: 1920s–1930sTechnique: Electrical systems for salon use

One of several American adaptations contributing to the scaling of permanent wave treatments.

Transition to Chemical Permanent Waves (1930s)

The 1930s marked a fundamental shift in technology.

Instead of relying primarily on electrical machines, chemists developed methods to reshape hair through chemical reactions.

This transition reduced dependence on large mechanical devices.

Machine-less Permanent Wave

Technique: Reduced reliance on electrical machines

An early step toward simplifying the process.

Spiral Permanent Wave

Technique: Spiral winding

Introduced new styling possibilities and more defined curl patterns.

Chemical Permanent Wave

Technique: Structural alteration through chemistry

Became the dominant approach by the late 1930s.

Cold Wave (1938)

Inventor: Arnold F. WillattCountry: United StatesTechnique: Ammonium thioglycolate process

The Cold Wave replaced large electrical machines with a chemical process that breaks and reforms the internal bonds of the hair.

This method became the foundation of modern permanent wave technology.

Home Permanent Wave Kits (1940s)

As the technology matured, manufacturers introduced home-use kits.

This marked a shift from professional-only treatments to mass-market consumer products — a key moment in the commercialisation of beauty technology.

From Invention to Industry

The history of the permanent wave is not the result of a single invention, but of continuous development over several decades.

From the Marcel Wave to the Nessler system, from electrical machines to chemical processes, each stage contributed to a broader transformation.

These innovations:

• reshaped hairdressing as a profession • introduced industrial production into beauty • created global markets for cosmetic products

After introducing his permanent wave system, Karl Ludwig Nessler expanded his work into business structures in Europe and the United States.

In America, this development led to companies and brands such as:

→ Nestlé and Nestlé-LeMur → manufacturers of machines and chemical products → structured salon systems

FAQ – History of Permanent Wave Technology

What was the first permanent wave machine?The first practical system was developed by Karl Ludwig Nessler around 1905, combining heat, chemistry and mechanical tension.

Who invented the Marcel Wave?Marcel Grateau developed the Marcel Wave in 1872 using heated curling irons.

What is the Joyner machine?Marjorie Joyner introduced a multi-rod system in 1928 that significantly improved efficiency in salons.

What is the Cold Wave?The Cold Wave, developed by Arnold F. Willatt in 1938, used chemical processes instead of heat machines.

When did chemical permanent waves replace machines?During the 1930s, especially after the introduction of the Cold Wave.