Permanent Wave Winding Techniques (1900–1930) – Archival Analysis and Technical Comparison
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The development of permanent wave technology is often explained through machines and patents.
However, a closer examination reveals that the decisive factor was not only mechanical innovation — but the method of winding the hair itself. Archival material (ref. 10733–10740) provides rare insight into how early permanent wave systems were applied in practice.
These documents show that permanent wave technology evolved not only as a machine, but as a structured technique.
The development of permanent wave technology is often explained through machines and patents.
However, a closer examination reveals that the decisive factor was not only mechanical innovation — but the method of winding the hair itself.
Archival material (ref. 10733–10740) provides rare insight into how early permanent wave systems were applied in practice.
These documents show that permanent wave technology evolved not only as a machine, but as a structured technique.
Archival Evidence – Winding in Practice
The archival records (10733–10740), as illustrated in the accompanying material, document real working methods used in early permanent wave treatments.
They reveal:
• systematic division of hair into sections • controlled application of tension • structured positioning across the scalp • defined winding sequences
Unlike patent drawings, which describe theoretical systems, these records reflect practical salon procedures.
Archival Material – Winding Techniques in Practice
(hier kommt dein Grid mit den Bildern)
The archival material illustrates the practical application of permanent wave techniques in early salon environments.
The images show:
• sectioning of hair across the scalp • positioning of rods • variation in winding techniques • distribution patterns during treatment
These visual records complement the written descriptions and provide insight into real working methods.
Archival Description of the Winding Process
One of the most detailed descriptions within the archival material explains the preparation and wrapping process:
“the hair is wrapped around said strip… and then on the rod of the curling iron” (ref. 10737)
This short passage is highly significant.
It confirms that the process involved multiple stages:
• preparing the hair using a strip (flannel) • controlling the structure before winding • wrapping the prepared strand around a heated rod
The material further describes how the hair is positioned and protected during the process, including the use of scalp protectors and controlled spacing.
From Technique to System
The archival material demonstrates that winding techniques followed a clear evolution:
→ individual strand processing→ structured multi-section distribution→ refined and flexible wrapping techniques
This progression reflects the transformation of permanent wave technology from experiment to system.
Nessler – Individual Strand Technique
The early system developed by Karl Ludwig Nessler relied on highly controlled, strand-by-strand work.
Hair was:
• divided into small individual strands • wrapped tightly around rods • processed sequentially • positioned in isolated sections
This method required precision, but resulted in long treatment times.
Joyner – Structured Multi-Rod System
The system introduced by Marjorie Stewart Joyner represents a shift toward organisation and scalability.
Hair was:
• divided into structured sections
• distributed across multiple rods • arranged systematically across the scalp • processed simultaneously
As shown in both patent drawings and archival descriptions, winding became organised and repeatable.
Croquignole – End-to-Root Technique
The Croquignole method, associated with Josef Mayer, introduced a different physical approach.
Hair was:
• wound from the ends toward the scalp • rolled along the length of the strand • shaped into spiral curls
This technique produced softer and more natural results.
Comparison of Winding Techniques
Technique | Nessler | Joyner | Croquignole |
Method | Individual strands | Structured sections | End-to-root winding |
Workflow | Sequential | Parallel | Flexible |
Distribution | Isolated | Systematic | Spiral |
Result | Structured curls | Consistent curls | Natural curls |
Key Insight
The archival material confirms a crucial point:
The evolution of permanent wave technology is not only mechanical, but procedural.
Machines enabled the process.
But technique defined the result.
Conclusion
The archival documents (10733–10740) provide rare evidence of how permanent wave techniques were applied in practice.
They demonstrate that the development of permanent wave technology depended not only on invention, but on the organisation of the winding process itself.
Together with the work of Karl Ludwig Nessler, Marjorie Stewart Joyner and Josef Mayer, these materials reveal:
permanent wave technology as a system of technique, not just machinery. For the earlier European development of permanent wave technology, including the life and work of Karl Ludwig Nessler before his move to the United States, see:
Sources and Archival References
• Archival material on permanent wave techniques (ref. 10733–10740) • U.S. Patent No. 1,693,515 (1928) – Marjorie S. Joyner • Early permanent wave system documentation
FAQ
What are archival references 10733–10740? They are historical documents describing practical permanent wave techniques.
Why are they important? They show how hair was actually processed in salons.
What is the key difference between the techniques? The shift from individual strands (Nessler) to structured systems (Joyner) and flexible wrapping (Croquignole).
What do these documents reveal? That technique and workflow were central to the development of permanent wave technology.
Why is winding technique important?
It determines the final shape, efficiency and consistency of the result.
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