Chapter XVIII – Stimulation and Defeat of
Natural Curling Hair

Chapter XVIII of The Story of Hair represents the final step in Charles Nessler’s overall argument.

After examining:

• hair structure

• environmental influence

• and natural curl formation

he now addresses a central question:

Can natural curling hair be stimulated—or defeated—by external influences?

This chapter directly connects his earlier theoretical ideas with practical hair treatment and leads toward the development of permanent waving.
 

External Influence on Hair

Nessler begins with a clear statement:

Natural curling hair is not fixed—it can be altered.
 

He explains that external influences can:

• enhance natural curl

• weaken it

• or completely eliminate it
   

Hair, in his view, is a responsive material rather than a static structure.

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Hair Dye as a Disruptive Factor

One of his strongest claims concerns hair dye.

According to Nessler:

Hair dye introduces a foreign substance into the shaft of the hair.

This process:

• stiffens the hair filament

• reduces its porosity

• interferes with its ability to absorb moisture

As a result, dyed hair generally loses its natural curling tendency.
 

Effect of Heat and Curling Tools

Nessler also discusses the use of heated curling tongs.

He explains that:

• hair is pressed between heated surfaces

• heat dries out internal components

• natural oils and flexibility are reduced

Although heat can create temporary curls, it has a negative effect on the hair’s natural curling ability.
 

Mechanical vs Natural Curling

A key distinction is made between two types of curling:

Mechanical curling

• produced by heat or pressure

• temporary

• often damaging

Natural curling

• caused by moisture absorption

• dependent on structure and porosity

• reversible

Nessler emphasizes that natural curling is a physical response, not an imposed form.

Case Study: Illness and Hair Change

Nessler presents a case in which a woman, confined to bed for several months, did not wash, brush, or manipulate her hair.

During this time:

• new hair developed a different texture

• it became softer

• thicker

• more porous

• and naturally wavy

He interprets this as evidence that natural hair characteristics can re-emerge when external interference is removed.
 

Neglect vs Overcare

A controversial idea in this chapter is that excessive care may be harmful.

Nessler argues that:

• frequent brushing stretches and weakens the hair

• washing removes natural oils

• constant manipulation reduces natural curl

In contrast, hair that is left largely undisturbed may retain more of its natural properties.
 

Children and Hair Development

This idea is extended to childhood.

Nessler suggests:

• infants often show natural curl

• modern care routines interfere with this

He criticizes:

• frequent washing

• use of soap

• strict hygienic routines

According to him, such practices reduce the natural curling tendency of the hair.
 

Hygiene and Its Effects

Nessler compares different lifestyles:

• traditional environments → more natural curl

• modern hygienic practices → straighter hair

He suggests that excessive cleanliness may alter the natural condition of the scalp and hair.
 

Porosity as the Key Factor

A central concept is again emphasized:

Porosity determines the ability of hair to curl.

• porous hair absorbs moisture

• moisture causes expansion

• expansion leads to bending and curling

External treatments reduce porosity and therefore weaken the hair’s natural response.
 

Return to Natural Condition

Nessler proposes that hair may recover its natural state.

If external influences are removed:

• porosity may return

• moisture absorption improves

• natural curling can reappear

This suggests that hair is capable of partial self-regulation.
 

Practical Recommendations

Based on his observations, Nessler recommends:

• avoiding excessive washing

• limiting chemical treatments

• reducing mechanical stress

His approach favors gradual correction rather than aggressive intervention.
 

Original Excerpt (1928)

“Naturally curling hair can be stimulated or defeated by external influences.”

“Dyed hair, therefore, generally loses its natural curling characteristic.”

“Nothing is more harmful to the healthy appearance of hair and to its curliness than the frequent application of fat-solvents.”

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Conclusion

Chapter XVIII presents a clear argument:

• natural curling hair can be altered or destroyed

• chemical treatments and heat reduce natural curl

• excessive care interferes with natural function

• porosity is essential for curl formation

Nessler concludes that the natural behavior of hair is fragile and easily disrupted by modern practices.
 

Modern Scientific Perspective

Modern science supports part of Nessler’s thinking, but not all of it.
 

What remains valid

• chemical treatments can damage hair structure

• heat can reduce elasticity and weaken texture

• porosity strongly affects how hair behaves in humidity

• overprocessing can reduce the appearance of natural curl
   

What is outdated

• hygiene itself does not “destroy” curl

• washing does not inherently make hair straighter

• natural curl is not primarily created by care habits

• the underlying curl pattern is largely determined by follicle shape, keratin structure, and genetics
   

Modern understanding

Today, curl pattern is understood as a structural characteristic that is genetically determined. External factors such as:

• dye

• bleach

• heat

• repeated brushing

• humidity

can modify how the hair looks and behaves, but they do not create the fundamental pattern from nothing.

In this sense, Nessler was right that natural hair texture is vulnerable to manipulation—but he overstated the role of washing and underestimated the biological basis of curl.

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Final Interpretation

This chapter serves as the direct transition to the concept of permanent waving.

It shows:

• the limitations of natural curl

• the damage caused by external manipulation

• and the need, in Nessler’s view, for a controlled method of altering hair structure

Hair is presented as a material that responds to its environment—but requires careful handling to preserve its natural properties.
 

OPTIONAL SECTION

→ Chapter 19 – The Permanent Wave
→ Chapter 17

→ Back to Overview
→ The Permanent Wave – Invention, Method and Impact

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Below you find the original scanned version of Chapter XVIII from The Story of Hair by Charles Nessler.

Download Chapter XVIII (Original Scan, 1928)