Chapter XIX – The Permanent Wave
 

Chapter XIX of The Story of Hair represents the culmination of Charles Nessler’s entire work.

After exploring:

• hair structure

• natural curl formation

• environmental influence

• and the limits of external treatments
   

he now introduces his most important contribution:

→ the permanent wave
 

This chapter explains both:

• the principle behind the process

• and the reasoning that led to its invention
   

The Problem: Natural Curl Is Unreliable

Nessler begins by summarizing a key issue:

→ natural curl is inconsistent and unstable
 

He explains:

• some hair curls naturally

• some remains straight

• environmental factors constantly change the result
   

From his perspective:

→ natural curling cannot be controlled reliably
 

The Idea Behind the Permanent Wave

The permanent wave is presented as a solution:

→to create controlled, lasting curl
 

Instead of relying on:

• humidity

• porosity

• natural variation
   

Nessler proposes:

→ a scientific method to fix the shape of hair
 

Basic Principle

The core concept is simple:

→ hair structure can be altered through controlled treatment

The process involves:

• shaping the hair

• applying heat

• using chemical or physical influence

• fixing the new form

Result:

→  the hair retains its new shape over time
 

Hair as a Malleable Material

Nessler treats hair as:

→ a material that can be reshaped
 

He compares it to:

• fibres

• natural materials

• structures that respond to heat and pressure

 

Key idea:

Hair is not fixed—it can be transformed under the right conditions.

From Temporary to Permanent Curl

Before his invention:

• curling was temporary

• dependent on tools or environment

The permanent wave introduces:

→ durability
 

Once treated:

• the curl remains

• independent of weather

• less affected by moisture
   

Control vs Nature

A central theme:

→ replacing natural variability with control

Nessler argues:

• natural curl is unpredictable

• external conditions constantly interfere
   

The permanent wave provides:

• consistency

• repeatability

• control over appearance
   

Connection to Previous Chapters

This chapter ties together earlier ideas:

• Chapter XVII → natural curl explained

• Chapter XVIII → natural curl can be destroyed

• Chapter XIX → curl can be intentionally created

→ logical progression:

Nature → Damage → Control
 

Limitations and Awareness

Even here, Nessler remains realistic.

He acknowledges:

• hair can be damaged

• processes must be controlled

• misuse leads to poor results

→ Important:

The permanent wave is not risk-free.
 

Original Excerpt (1928)

“The permanent wave is the result of applying controlled influence to hair in order to produce a lasting curl.”

“Natural curling cannot be relied upon; therefore a method was required to create a permanent effect.”

(based on the original chapter content)

​

Conclusion

Chapter XIX presents the final step in Nessler’s system.

Key ideas:

• natural curl is inconsistent

• hair can be reshaped

• controlled treatment allows lasting results

• the permanent wave solves a practical problem
   

This chapter transforms theory into application.
 

Modern Scientific Perspective

Modern science fully explains the mechanism behind the permanent wave.

✔️ What is correct:

• hair structure can be altered ✔

• heat and chemicals change shape ✔

• curl can be fixed permanently ✔
   

Modern explanation

Hair consists of:

• keratin proteins

• structural bonds (especially disulfide bonds)
   

Permanent waving works by:

1. breaking internal bonds

2. reshaping the hair

3. reforming bonds in a new position

→ this locks the curl into place
 

Modern advancements

Today’s methods include:

• chemical waving solutions

• controlled temperature systems

• improved safety and precision

What remains relevant

Nessler’s core insight remains valid:

→ hair can be controlled through science
 

This idea forms the foundation of:

• modern hairdressing

• chemical treatments

• styling technology

• ​

Final Interpretation

Chapter XIX is not just another chapter.

→ it is the result of everything before it
 

Nessler moves from:

• observation
  → theory
  → measurement
  → criticism
  → application

The permanent wave represents:

→ the transition from nature to controlled transformation
 

OPTIONAL SECTION

→ Chapter 18
→ Back to Overview

→ 

 

Below you find the original scanned version of Chapter XIV from The Story of Hair by Charles Nessler.

Download Chapter XIV (Original Scan, 1928)