Chapter V of The Story of Hair represents a decisive shift in Charles Nessler’s argument.

After establishing broad theories about civilization and instinct in earlier chapters, Nessler now focuses on the individual.
 

The central question becomes:

Why does hair growth differ from one person to another?
 

Rather than offering a purely biological explanation, Nessler develops a theory that connects:

• hair production

• physical constitution

• instinct

• and personal vitality

This chapter is one of the most detailed attempts in the book to explain hair as a system tied to the whole human organism.
 

Hair Production and Individual Variation

Nessler argues that individuals differ significantly in their ability to produce hair.

“The individual which produces the largest amount [of hair] has the greatest potential driving force.”

According to him:

• hair production reflects internal energy

• stronger individuals produce more hair

• weaker individuals produce less

He extends this idea beyond individuals to entire populations, suggesting that migration, ambition, and environmental adaptation influence hair development.

This reflects an early attempt to link biology with behavior and social dynamics.
 

Hair Growth as a Continuous Process

A key scientific claim in the chapter is that hair grows continuously and independently of external factors.

“Hair grows on… with the regularity of the ticking of a clock, night and day.”

Nessler emphasizes:

• constant growth rate

• independence from seasons or environment

• automatic biological regulation

This leads to one of his core principles:
 

Hair Growth = Hair Loss

“Our hair grows continually and if a person produces a certain amount of hair each year, he must lose as much.”

This introduces the idea of a balanced cycle:

• production

• retention

• shedding
   

He also notes:

• daily hair loss (50–100 hairs)

• differences between men and women

• influence of grooming habits

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This is one of the few areas where his thinking aligns with modern understanding.
 

Hair is Not a Living Tissue

One of the most striking statements:

“There is no ‘live’ or ‘dead’ hair… it has no nerves or arteries.”

 

Nessler describes hair as:

• structurally organized

• but biologically inactive

• an end-product of the body

He goes further:

Hair is essentially a “waste matter” produced by the organism.

While simplified, this anticipates modern views that the visible hair shaft is not metabolically active.

The Role of Hair Follicles

A major technical section focuses on the function of follicles.

Nessler explains:

• each follicle produces hair at a fixed rate

• follicles differ in size → fine / medium / coarse hair

• about 1,000 follicles per square inch

• ​

He also introduces a mechanical concept:

Hair remains in place due to muscular holding capacity within the follicle.

This leads to an important conclusion:

• when hair becomes too heavy → it falls out

• new hair replaces it
   

This is his explanation for hair cycles and length variation.
 

Hair Growth in Childhood

Nessler uses childhood development as a key argument.

“The infant… is often fully covered with lanugo hair.”

He describes a sequence:

1. Birth → fine body hair

2. Early years → shedding

3. Later → stronger scalp hair
    

He also claims:

• follicles exist at birth

• but develop over time

• full scalp coverage appears around age 3–4
   

This reflects real observation, though interpreted through his theoretical framework.
 

Extreme Case Observations

Nessler strengthens his theory using case studies.

Case 1 – Illness and Hair Loss

A severely ill boy showed extremely low hair production.

Conclusion:
Hair reflects internal strength.

Case 2 – Isolated Child (South Africa)

A child living outside society developed unusually strong hair coverage.

Conclusion:
Instinct and survival conditions increase hair growth.
 

These examples reveal how Nessler builds his theory:

observation → interpretation → generalization
 

Hair Growth After Death

One of the most controversial claims:

“Hair growth after death is as logical as the escape of smoke from a chimney after the fire below has been extinguished.”

Nessler argues:

• hair continues to grow after death

• due to stored biological “reserves”

• independent of active body functions
   

He supports this with:

• legal cases

• medical observations

• anecdotal evidence
   

Today, this is considered incorrect (optical illusion due to skin shrinkage).
 

Hair as a Biological Reserve System

Nessler introduces a deeper idea:

Hair production depends on stored resources within the body.

“The hair reserve must depend upon the circumstances preceding death.”

He compares this to animals:

• fat storage → later converted into fur

• seasonal adaptation

Hair becomes part of a long-term biological economy
 

Animal Comparison and Instinct

A central argument:

Animals with intense survival conditions produce more hair.

 

Examples:

• wild animals → dense fur

• domesticated animals → weaker hair
   

“The covering of the animal is regulated by the intensities of its life struggle.”

He concludes:

• strong instinct → strong hair

• comfort → reduced hair
   

This mirrors his broader theory about modern humans losing hair through civilization.
 

Final Argument of the Chapter

The chapter ends with a powerful image:
 

Comfort weakens instinct—and with it, hair.
 

Nessler contrasts:

• the wild animal → strong, hairy, instinct-driven

• the domesticated one → weaker, less hair

This becomes a metaphor for modern humans.
 

Conclusion of Chapter V

Chapter V develops one of Nessler’s central theories:

Hair is not random—it reflects the individual.

Key ideas:

• Hair growth varies between individuals

• It is linked to vitality and instinct

• It follows a continuous cycle of production and loss

• It reflects deeper biological and psychological processes
   

Modern Scientific Perspective

Modern science strongly contradicts many of Nessler’s conclusions.

​

What remains valid:

• Hair grows continuously ✔

• Hair cycles exist ✔

• Individual variation is real ✔

What is outdated:

• Instinct influences hair growth ❌

• Hair grows after death ❌

• Vitality directly determines hair density ❌

Today, hair growth is explained by:

• genetics

• hormones (especially DHT)

• age

• health conditions
   

What remains relevant

Despite scientific inaccuracies, one key insight still holds:

Hair has strong psychological and social meaning.

Modern research confirms links between hair and:

• identity

• attractiveness

• self-perception

• social signaling

In this sense, Nessler was ahead of his time.
 

OPTIONAL SECTION

→ Chapter 6 
→ Chapter 4

→ Back to Overview
→ The Permanent Wave – Invention, Method and Impact

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Original Chapter (1928)

Below you find the original scanned version of Chapter V from The Story of Hair by Charles Nessler.

PDF Chapter V (Original Scan)