How Does a Permanent Wave Work? The Original Method by Charles Nessler Explained
- awe681
- 11. März
- 4 Min. Lesezeit
Aktualisiert: 29. März
The Science Behind Nessler’s Original Method
The permanent wave, often simply called a perm, is one of the most remarkable technological developments in the history of hairdressing. Unlike ordinary styling techniques, which only shape the hair temporarily, a permanent wave alters the internal structure of the hair itself.
To understand how this works, it is necessary to look at the structure of hair and the chemical processes that allow it to change shape.
The structure of human hair
Human hair is made primarily of a protein called keratin. These keratin molecules form long chains that are connected by different types of chemical bonds.
One of the most important of these bonds is the disulfide bond. These bonds act like tiny bridges that hold the protein structure of the hair together and determine whether hair is straight, wavy or curly.
If these bonds remain unchanged, the natural form of the hair remains stable. But if they are temporarily broken and then re-formed while the hair is in a new shape, the hair will keep that new form.
This principle lies at the heart of the permanent wave.
Changing the shape of hair
A permanent wave works by performing three main steps:
Breaking some of the internal bonds in the hair
Reshaping the hair around rods or curlers
Re-forming the bonds so the new shape becomes stable
The result is hair that remains curly or wavy even after washing.
The role of curling rods
Before any chemical treatment takes place, the hair is wrapped around curling rods. These rods determine the shape and size of the curls.
Small rods produce tight curls, while larger rods create softer waves. Once the hair is wrapped around the rods, the structure of the hair can be modified while it is held in this new form.
Chemical softening of the hair
In modern permanent waves, a chemical solution is applied to the wrapped hair. This solution temporarily softens the internal structure of the hair and breaks some of the disulfide bonds that normally keep the hair in its natural shape.
Because the hair is wrapped around rods, it adopts the curved form of the rods. At this stage, the hair is flexible and can be reshaped.
Fixing the new shape
After the hair has taken on the new shape, a second solution is applied. This step is often called neutralisation.
During this stage, the previously broken bonds begin to reform. However, because the hair is still wrapped around the rods, the bonds reform in the new curved shape.
Once the rods are removed, the hair retains the new structure. The curls remain even after washing or brushing.
Early permanent waves and heat
The first permanent wave systems developed by Karl Ludwig Nessler in the early twentieth century relied heavily on heat.
Nessler’s machines used electrically heated rods suspended from a frame above the client’s head. Hair was wrapped around metal rods and heated for several hours while treated with chemical preparations.
Although the process was slow and complex, it demonstrated for the first time that hair could be permanently reshaped.
Difference between early and modern permanent waves
While modern permanent waves rely mainly on chemical processes, early systems developed by Karl Ludwig Nessler depended heavily on heat.
Electrically heated rods were used to maintain temperature over several hours. This combination of heat and chemistry marked the beginning of modern hair technology.
Later systems gradually reduced the amount of heat required and relied more on chemical processes, making the treatment safer and more efficient.
Why the permanent wave lasts
A permanent wave lasts because the internal bonds of the hair are rearranged. Instead of simply bending the hair temporarily, the treatment changes the microscopic structure of the hair protein.
Over time, the effect gradually fades as new hair grows and the treated hair is cut away. However, the treated section remains curly for months.
This ability to reshape hair structure is what made the permanent wave such a revolutionary invention in professional hairdressing.
From invention to modern hair technology
The scientific principle behind the permanent wave remains essentially the same today as when Karl Ludwig Nessler first demonstrated his system in the early twentieth century.
Although modern products and techniques are safer and more efficient, they still rely on the same fundamental idea: temporarily altering the internal bonds of the hair and allowing them to reform in a new shape.
For this reason, the permanent wave is not only a beauty treatment but also an early example of applied cosmetic science.
FAQ
What makes a permanent wave permanent?A permanent wave changes the internal chemical bonds within the hair. Once these bonds reform while the hair is curled, the hair keeps that shape for months.
Does a permanent wave damage hair?Modern perm techniques are designed to minimise damage, but any chemical treatment that alters hair structure can weaken the hair if performed incorrectly.
How long does a permanent wave last?Most permanent waves last between three and six months, depending on hair growth and hair care.
Who invented the permanent wave?The first workable permanent wave system was developed by Karl Ludwig Nessler around 1905.
Why were early permanent waves so complicated?Early permanent wave machines used electrically heated rods and required several hours of treatment. Later chemical systems simplified the process.
Kommentare