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Chapter IV – The Race and Its Hair (Sex Production)

Chapter IV of The Story of Hair marks a shift toward one of Charles Nessler’s most controversial ideas:

that hair—especially what he calls “sex hair”—is directly linked to human sexuality, reproduction, and instinct.

In this chapter, Nessler attempts to connect biological development, sexual maturity, and social behavior into a single framework.
 

From Childhood to Sexual Maturity

Nessler begins with a psychological observation:

children initially experience fear and instinctive reactions, but as they grow, these instincts become reshaped by society.

With the onset of puberty, a new force appears:

a hidden internal “messenger” (which he describes metaphorically as the Gonad).

This force gradually transforms the body.

He describes how:

  • soft body hair becomes stronger

  • facial hair begins to develop in males

  • physical changes signal sexual maturity

Hair, in this context, is not random—it is a visible sign of internal biological activation.
 

Hair as Expression of Sexual Energy

A central claim in this chapter:

hair growth reflects the intensity of sexual development.

According to Nessler:

  • Beard growth → indicator of male sexual maturity

  • Body hair → linked to reproductive development

  • Hair distribution → varies with internal biological processes

He describes puberty as a long process (often up to 15 years), during which these changes stabilize.

Once fully developed:

  • hair production becomes relatively stable

  • individual differences remain, but follow patterns

Original Excerpt (1928)

“The youth discerns with swelling pride a soft down on his chin and upper lip. Deeply impressed with his new manliness he assiduously cultivates a mustache and instinctively begins to cast glances toward the other sex.”

“Hair appearance on the erogenous places is always coincidental with Gonad’s activity.”

Individual Variation in Hair Production

Nessler emphasizes that hair production differs strongly between individuals.

He describes a wide spectrum:

  • minimal hair growth

  • moderate development

  • strong beard growth

These differences are, in his view, tied to:

  • vitality

  • nutrition

  • internal biological conditions

He even attempts to quantify hair production, suggesting measurable variation between individuals.
 

Hair, Sexual Selection, and Attraction

Nessler treats hair as a form of biological signaling.

He argues that:

  • male beard → sign of virility

  • physical traits → indicators of reproductive readiness

  • hair contributes to attraction and mate selection

He compares these traits to a form of natural signaling within human relationships.
 

Cultural and Social Influences on Hair

The chapter expands into how culture influences human development.

Nessler contrasts different environments:

  • industrial vs rural populations

  • structured vs less structured lifestyles

  • different social systems

He argues that:

  • living conditions influence behavior

  • behavior influences biological expression

  • environment affects development

He also links:

  • nutrition

  • physical activity

  • lifestyle

to variations in hair growth.
 

Suppression of Instinct in Modern Society

One of his key arguments:

modern society reshapes natural instincts.

He describes:

  • social norms

  • moral frameworks

  • changing behavioral expectations

as forces that influence how humans express themselves.

According to Nessler, these changes impact both behavior and physical development.
 

Hair and Civilization

Nessler connects this chapter back to his broader theory:

civilization influences human biology.

He suggests:

  • modern life changes natural behavior

  • physical traits reflect these changes

  • development is shaped by environment and society

Hair becomes, in this context, a visible indicator of these transformations.
 

Conclusion of Chapter IV

Chapter IV presents one of Nessler’s most ambitious frameworks.

His key ideas:

  • Hair is linked to biological development

  • Physical traits reflect internal processes

  • Society influences human behavior

  • Environment shapes physical expression

The chapter attempts to connect biology, psychology, and society into one unified perspective.
 

Modern Scientific Perspective

Modern science does not support the idea that hair growth is directly linked to psychological intensity or instinct.

Instead, current understanding is based on:

  • Hormones
    Hair growth is regulated primarily by androgens such as testosterone and DHT.

  • Genetics
    Hair distribution patterns are inherited and vary naturally.

  • Puberty biology
    Hair development is part of normal sexual maturation controlled by endocrine processes.

  • Evolutionary biology
    Physical traits such as facial hair may play a role in attraction, but not in the deterministic way Nessler suggests.

Historical Context

Some of Nessler’s interpretations reflect the scientific thinking of the early 20th century.

These ideas are now considered outdated and not scientifically accurate.
 

What Remains Relevant

One insight still holds value:

hair plays a role in:

  • identity

  • attraction

  • perception

Modern research confirms that:

  • facial hair influences perceived masculinity

  • grooming affects social signaling

  • appearance impacts confidence and social interaction
     

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The Permanent Wave – Invention, Method and Impact

Original Chapter (1928)

Below you find the original scanned version of Chapter IV from The Story of Hair by Charles Nessler.

Download Chapter IV (Original Scan, 1928)

International Research Project on the Permanent Wave

This website is part of an ongoing historical research project on the development of the permanent wave and the life of Charles Nessler (1872–1951).

The aim of this digital project is to document the history of the permanent wave in a comprehensive and source-based way.

The research includes:

  • biographical milestones

  • historical documents and press sources

  • patents and technical developments

  • international networks within the hairdressing profession

The archive is continuously expanding and based on ongoing research in European and international archives.


View the German archive (nessler-dauerwelle.de)
View Nestlé-LemurCompany (nestle-lemur.com)

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